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River Surfing at Habitat 67

And every time you find us on a wave in the middle of nowhere,

In a city filled of skyscrapers and buildings hiding the beauty of the sky

You will see us question our sanity

You will see us wonder about our lives

And our inexplicable passion for a lifestyle that was never supposed to be ours

A drop of water. The smell of algae. An eternal wave.

We don’t know the reason, but we need to be there

We need to do this, to catch waves

We need to immerse ourselves in the water

And connect to the Earth

We need to pause the time and enjoy the present moment

We need to live out of the little things, out of the ordinary

We need to be, just be

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