And every time you find us on a wave in the middle of nowhere,
In a city filled of skyscrapers and buildings hiding the beauty of the sky
You will see us question our sanity
You will see us wonder about our lives
And our inexplicable passion for a lifestyle that was never supposed to be ours
A drop of water. The smell of algae. An eternal wave.
We don’t know the reason, but we need to be there
We need to do this, to catch waves
We need to immerse ourselves in the water
And connect to the Earth
We need to pause the time and enjoy the present moment
We need to live out of the little things, out of the ordinary
We need to be, just be
