We didn’t realize that we were living a unique and pure moment. Summer in the south-west of France offers surfing days that mark your mind for a year. This day was one of them.
A few kilometers from our home break on the Nouvelle Aquitaine’s shore, my friends and I decided to fill the cars with surfboards and drive straight to the sunset waiting for us. Under the scorching sun, the ocean decided to send us a long swell ideal for longboards.
It’s such a pleasure to surf and push daytime to its limits. Consuming every crack of daylight until total darkness. I adore the feeling. We lose our minds in the water when the dark veil is above us.
This day was special.
This day marked our summer.
Want to read more from Alex?Â
Read his article about Ireland here.
